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Sunday, November 22, 2009

Making the best of Turkey Day dinner disasters
The turkey’s still frozen solid. The gravy comes out lumpy. The guests arrive before the food is finished. Big holiday dinners can be tough to orchestrate. Don't worry. Most kitchen failures can be fixed with a little ingenuity and flexibility. If the buttered carrots morph into carrot soup or the cake becomes “pudding” at the last minute, no one needs to know that isn’t what you’d planned all along. The most important thing is to keep your cool.

A Thanksgiving tuber tutorial
Food Detective: We’re all guilty of it. A little wine, a little checking on the turkey, a little more wine. Before you know it, those potatoes have been boiling in water for 40 minutes. Yes, Thanksgiving is for multi-tasking cooks. But you have to admit, potatoes often get tossed aside in the juggle.

Numbers add up to worry-free Thanksgiving
Preparing Thanksgiving dinner is enough of a pressure cooker, never mind having to do on-the-fly math to get it right. Here are all the numbers you need to have a safe, worry-free and delicious Turkey Day dinner. All serving estimates are generous to allow for plenty of seconds and leftovers.

Sandwiches and more with Thanksgiving leftovers
Swap Shop: Thanksgiving leftovers need not be mundane, especially if you use a bit of creativity. Take a cue from these recipes for Stuffing Bites, Turkey Tacos with Cranberry Salsa and celebrity chef Paula Deen’s Holiday Leftovers Sandwich, requested by C.G. of Chicago.

Cooking with seasons a priority for Osteria chef
At the Chef's Table: I’ve visited Italy many times, and throughout my travels, the best meals I have enjoyed were straightforward and seasonally driven. Simple, local ingredients speak the loudest as Italian restaurants draw from the bounty that surrounds them. Just outside of Florence, I discovered Da Delfino’s open patio overlooking olive trees and a beautiful view of the countryside.

Guy Savoy's rice pudding is luxury by the spoonful
What does a world renowned chef and reigning king of haute cuisine serve for dessert at his 3-star Michelin restaurant in the heart of Paris? As described in his book, Guy Savoy: Simple French Recipes for the Home Cook, Guy Savoy serves something he claims took him 30 years to muster up enough nerve to feature on his dessert menu. Something he touts that, for him, is “par excellence.” The minute I read this, I knew I had to try making Guy’s Rice Pudding.

Extra sweet potatoes? Make pudding
True, sweet potatoes aren’t fruits, but they make a great pudding. Dark muscovado sugar has a molassesy note that’s just right with the sweet potato and the coconut milk.

Outta the Box
There are a lot of things Dr. McDougall’s tomato soup doesn’t have. It’s gluten free, certified vegan and has no cholesterol.

What it does have is great flavor. Rich in color and taste, this tomato soup doesn’t disappoint.

Food 411
Shaw’s Crab House sushi chef Naoki Nakashima shows how to make salmon Philadelphia maki at 11:30 a.m. Dec. 5 at the Schaumburg location, 1900 E. Higgins; $45 includes lunch. This is one in a series of sushi demonstration lunches to be offered monthly through May. (847) 517-5722.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Barbecue scoreboard: Merle's 2, Megabiters 0
It was like a horror movie. As I watched two of my Pioneer Press friends wrestle huge barbecue and burger plates in the back room of the nearly deserted Merle's #1 Barbecue in Evanston, I heard a strange rustling out front, a noise that grew minute by minute.

A better turkey meal deal
Cooks can truly be frugal gourmets this Thanksgiving, as consumers enjoy lower food prices, at least for now. The Thanksgiving meal with turkey, stuffing, cranberries, pumpkin pie and all the trimmings will cost an average of $42.91, a decrease of $1.70, or 3.8 percent, from last year, according to the American Farm Bureau Federation.

Rain may put pumpkin pie in peril, Nestle says

PORTLAND, Ore. -- The holidays may not be so sweet this year.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Learn from Thanksgiving hosts with the most
Though Jill Barron has “pork!” tattooed on her inner lip, she’s one of Chicago’s best vegetarian chefs. It’s precisely this kind of revelry in contradiction that also has the chef and owner of Wicker Park restaurant MANA Food Bar indulging in the tough feat of cooking for 60-plus people every Thanksgiving. She has done it for the last 15 years in her tiny Logan Square condo.

Leggo my Eggo! Kellogg fights waffle shortage

ATLANTA (AP) — Dear Kellogg: Leggo my Eggo!

Making pie crust? Be cool
Want to be the hero of your Thanksgiving fete? Make pie -- and crust -- from scratch. "People are blown away if you can make a pie," says Shelley Young of the Chopping Block cooking school in Chicago. "And really, once you get the crust down, the rest of it tends to be a lot easier."

Thanksgiving how-to videos
Three videos featuring the pros at Chicago's Chopping Block will help you master the big day's biggest challenges — pie crusts (from scratch, yes you can!), gravy (keep stirring!) and carving the bird.

Be grateful for good wine
SwirlSavvy: Thanksgiving dinner is a grazer’s dream but a challenge in terms of figuring out what wine to serve. Plus, from Mom’s marshmallow-topped sweet potatoes to Grandma’s stuffing to Dad’s turkey, it’s loaded with tradition. If you’re tasked with bringing the wine, these factors can make it somewhat intimidating.

Casting aside the green bean casserole
Sometimes I wonder if I’m truly an American.

I mean, I have never eaten a peanut butter and jelly sandwich on white bread, I have never eaten at Taco Bell and despite its nearly iconic status in American cuisine, I cannot abide green bean casserole. You know the one — green beans with cream of mushroom soup, topped with crispy fried onions.

Honoring tradition with classic potatoes
Swap Shop: Classic potatoes, the varieties that make for wonderful memories, are perfect additions for holiday gatherings. Donna Thomas of Chicago shares her Sweet Potato Casserole with melted marshmallows, Sue Flint of Winnetka shares her Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Mary Ann Sellers of Chicago shares her “best ever” Scalloped Potatoes recipe.

Show leftovers plenty of love
For some people, the whole point of Thanksgiving dinner is to have leftovers. These are the people who intentionally buy a monster-size bird, mash way too many potatoes and pop an extra pie in the oven. Here are some ideas for the second and third days of Thanksgiving dinner.

Grocery trends to watch for in 2010
Shopping Smart: There is little doubt that grocery shoppers are yearning for optimism after the past 20 or so months of this faltering economy. There is a new consumer reality. People are eating more meals at home. Homemakers are evolving from being merely food assemblers. They’re switching brands based on sale prices, discovering new store formats and making these stores part of their regular shopping.

Outta the Box
Here’s the scoop for those who think couscous is just a dish with a funny name. Couscous are fine granules of semolina flour; its origins trace back to North Africa. Lundberg takes the product to a new level with a vegan, gluten-free, certified organic product made from brown rice.

Food 411
Chef Randy Zweiban of Province, 161 N. Jefferson, hosts a four-course dinner at 6:30 p.m. Monday showcasing pears, apples and cider from Seedling Orchard of South Haven, Mich., and brews from Three Floyds Brewing Co. of Munster, Ind.; $65 includes 5:30 p.m. reception. (312) 669-9900.

Tastings Around Town
Eivissa Pintxos, Tapas and Sangria

1531 N. Wells

The restaurant kicks off a new monthly salsa and sangria party series at 7 p.m. Thursday; $25 includes the eatery’s signature sangrias and dancing lessons. (312) 654-9500.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Big prime rib and a long good-bye at Don Roth's
Was it something I said? A few days after visiting Don Roth's Blackhawk for an oversize prime rib, the restaurant announced it's going out of business. The Blackhawk, founded 90 years ago in the Loop, is an old-fashioned place, and it's going out in an old-fashioned way.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Farmers share favorite Thanksgiving recipes
Thanksgiving is all about the meal. What better time, then, to connect with what is on our plate? Farmers do this better than the rest of us. They know exactly where their food comes from. Chefs may get the glory for their entrees, but even they will admit, they’re only as good as their ingredients.

Writer's love rooted in family farm
November, for most of us, marks the year closing in. For farmers, November marks an end to the vegetable harvest — but it also is a beginning. As Terra Brockman writes in The Seasons on Henry's Farm (Agate Surrey, $25), this month ushers in the first hard frost and the crucial first planting for the next season’s crops. Fittingly, that’s where Brockman’s memoir begins, with the tedious inserting of garlic cloves, one by one, into the soil.

Pumpkin seed brittle pits sweet, savory
At the Chef's Table: Pumpkin seeds are an intricate part of “American cuisine,” found in everything from mole to granola. They cross cuisines the way most of us intermix our lattes with hazelnuts and soymilk. 

American cuisine a 'state of mind'
Books for Cooks: America is a land of immigrants — and nowhere is that more apparent than in the way we eat, whether in our homes, on the streets or in restaurants. Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s latest book, New American Table (Wiley Hardcover, $40) celebrates the vast and delicious diversity — and the immigrant presence that helped spawn it — found in kitchens and cultures across the United States.

Swap Shop: Cold temps beg for classic comfort fare
Comfort foods — including an update on classic cheese toasties, requested by H.F. of South Bend and chicken and dumplings, requested by M.A. of Chicago — increase in popularity when the temperatures decrease and the ease of preparation of such dishes goes up.

Outta the Box: Big Bowl Spicy Peanut Sauce
How many times have you tasted a restaurant’s signature sauce and said, “If only I can duplicate that at home.” Big Bowl realizes this, and has made its signature dipping sauces and dressings available to the home cook.

Food 411

Food & Wine Magazine’s annual Entertaining Showcase opens at 6:30 p.m. Monday at the Museum of Contemporary Art, 220 E. Chicago; $110 ($125 at the door). Participating chefs include Alinea’s Grant Achatz, Stephanie Izard, Graham Elliot Bowles of Graham Elliot and Chris Pandel of the Bristol. Visit foodandwine.com/chicago .

Tastings Around Town

The next guest on the Chopping Block's Sommelier Series roster is master sommelier and NoMI wine director  Fernando Beteta. Beteta’s “Desperate House Wines” class at 6 p.m. Monday spotlights wines that should be found in every household.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

City boasts most '5-Diamond' restaurants
Chicago has more "Five Diamond"-rated restaurants than any other city -- seven -- in AAA's new ratings. They are: Alinea (for four years running); Arun's (eight years); Avenues, in The Peninsula hotel (four years); Charlie Trotter's (16 years); Everest (14 years); Seasons Restaurant, in the Four Seasons Hotel (10 years), and Tru (10 years).

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Dish is a skillet meal fit for a cast-iron stomach
"Hey, Mario," I asked the waiter as he went by. "Does anybody actually finish one of these things?" Mario Velez shook his head as he passed the 9-inch skillet weighing down my table, brimming with several pounds of steaming victuals. "Some people come close," he said with a grin. Velez makes his bones at Johnny's Kitchen & Tap, one of those places where no one goes away hungry.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Meeting your meat: One woman's farm-to-plate journey
From the time I toddled, I dabbled in “cooking,” scrawling recipes with a newly acquired tripod grip. Later, I pored over cookbooks rather than breezy beach reads. As an adult, I wanted to share this world with my son. He’s not an eater like me. We talk about food a lot, though, and he willingly tastes things that would, frankly, frighten most kids.

For one night, tastier lunch on the menu for students
I expected to come home with a full stomach after being a judge last week at Cooking Up Change, an annual cooking competition for Chicago Public School teens. I didn’t expect to wind up feeling so disheartened.

Lidia Bastianich an expert in Italian way — keeping it simple
Lidia Bastianich has to be the best there is when it comes to cooking Italian on television. She has a gentle way of explaining what she is doing, how she is doing it, why she is doing it and what a dish is all about without losing you in a morass of extra words and unnecessary razzle-dazzle. But then that’s the Italian way — keep it simple.

Filling a carbonara craving
When it comes to lunch, I’m pretty predictable: I’m generally a sandwich-or-soup kind of gal. If I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll make the sandwich hot or the soup cold, but I’m adventurous less often than not. On the weekends, from time to time, I’ll spice it up — eschewing my normal fare for a mish-mash of cheeses and crackers and fruit and such. But, it might be time to rethink my ways.

Hometown talent has hook on fall cookbooks
Chicago culinarians, get thee to the bookstore. The fall crop of cookbooks includes several by Chicago authors that should keep you busy and well-fed through the holidays.

Lighten up before holidays with seasonal salads
Mark Payne, executive chef of the Ritz-Carlton Chicago, and California’s Earthbound Farm Organic Food deliver modern salads and dressings in response to a request from E.W. of Chicago for interesting pre-holiday salads.

Eater's Digest: November happenings
Nov. 5: Step out for the Lincoln Square Fall Wine Stroll, 7 to 9:30 p.m.; $40. (773) 728-3890.

Pomegranate pretty to look at — and packs a nutritional punch
Pomegranates have become the poster fruit for healthy eating and not without reason — they’re beautiful, delicious and full of vitamins.

Versatile dip works with any veggies
In about the time it takes to go to the store (and stand in line to pay) you can make this platter of nicoise-style creamy feta and garlic dip with crudites that will serve two dozen at a cost of about 60 cents per person.

Outta the Box
Cooking for one, or do you have a family with diverse tastes when it comes to vegetables? Green Giant has just the thing — frozen, single-serving vegetable trays.

Tastings Around Town

State and Lake

201 N. State

The restaurant presents a four-course dinner centered around Goose Island beers at 5 tonight; $59. (312) 239-9400.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Jones Soda targets vegans with Tofurky and Gravey
Jones Soda won’t talk turkey this Thanksgiving. The Seattle-based pop brand known for wacky seasonal flavors — Turkey and Gravy among them — is selling a Tofurky and Gravy drink for the holidays.

End of the line for two fine-dining establishments
It’s lights out for two longtime names in the Chicago area’s fine-dining scene. Nick’s Fishmarket, which has been in the Loop for 32 years, closed after serving Friday’s dinner. And Don Roth’s Blackhawk will close at year end in Wheeling, ending a 90-year run of a Blackhawk restaurant in the region.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Eat this cheeseburger in Evanston and call 911
Many strange foods have emerged from the French fry baskets at Wiener and Still Champion in Evanston in the shadow of the Dempster Street el. But they're all like health food compared to the Triple Undisputed, a $22.50, nine-hamburger patty, 11-cheese-slice abomination on a twisted challah bun.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Bread of the dead! Chicago bakers dig up Mexican fave
While candy is the treat of choice for many American children this time of year, it’s a sweet bread that delights the palates of Mexican-American children and adults who observe Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead. Pan de muerto, literally “bread of the dead,” is baked throughout the Chicago metro area in Mexican bakeries, a handful of restaurants and in private homes for this major Mexican holiday, celebrated Nov. 1 and 2. Pan de muerto, literally “bread of the dead,” is baked throughout the Chicago metro area.

Craving candy? Unwrap new cookbook by pastry enthusiast
Working on a candy cookbook understandably has its highs. You get to eat a lot of chocolate, as does your boyfriend, your friends and other test subjects. In their eyes, you are a sugar-pulling, chocolate-tempering rock star. But Anita Chu, author of the new Field Guide to Candy: How to Identify and Make Virtually Every Candy Imaginable (Quirk Books, $15.95), says she even hit a few lows.

Pate a choux perfected
At the Chef's Table: Pate a choux was one of the first things I learned how to make when I was 16 years old in my home country of France. Now, 17 years later, as the pastry chef at NoMI, I can add thousands of eclairs (long and custard-filled), religieuses (two choux stacked one on top of the other) and Paris-brests (ring-shaped, split and filled with praline) to my repertoire.

SwirlSavvy: Wines for the sweet tooth
While the kids are out trick-or-treating this Halloween and you’re stuck at home passing out candy, try some wines that are tricks and treats in their own right (drinking out of plastic jack o’ lanterns optional). 

Good gourd: Pumpkin soup makes for a soothing meal
I love pumpkin picking. I love the sense of a community harvest. I love that it marks the official start of autumn. I love the sheer excitement of every busy pumpkin seeker and onlooker, big and small, young and old. But, most of all, I love pumpkin picking because it means: pumpkin soup.

Swap Shop: Last-minute Halloween treats are sure to please
Last-minute recipe pleas for Halloween treats — a request from D.L.S. of Chicago for red candy apples and caramel apples, a request from H.H. of Buffalo Grove for sugar-type cookies with M&M’s and one from A.S. of Brookfield for popcorn balls — netted tasty responses.

When melting chocolate, keep the heat low and the bowl dry

Dear Lynne: What’s the deal with melting chocolate and adding liquid to it? One time all’s OK; the next time the chocolate clumps, won’t melt and I end up with it in the garbage. Should I change chocolate?

Coriander, chile add pop to chickpeas
When fat is cut from recipes, flavor can follow. That’s when spices become the key to making lighter foods taste great. And if you want to get the most out of your spices, it’s best to follow a few simple tips.

Food 411

Kendall College alumni unite for the Chicago stop of Share Our Strength’s A Tasteful Pursuit touring dinner series, 6 p.m. Monday at 900 N. North Branch; $150. Chef alumni include Steve Chiappetti of Viand, Mindy Segal of Hot Chocolate and Kristine Subido of Wave. (888) 273-6141; strength.org.

Tastings Around Town

KiKi’s Bistro, 900 N. Franklin

The bistro partners with Goose Island Brewery for Wednesday Night Workout at 5:30 p.m. Nov. 4; $15. Scott Moyers of Goose Island will discuss beer pairings. Menu item samples include mussels steamed in beer. (312) 335-5454.

Outta the Box
Marie Callender’s, known for its frozen food entrees, has introduced its first shelf-stable product line.

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